Troubleshooting: Why Does My Sublimation Look Faded?
Your complete guide to understanding dull, washed-out, or weak sublimation prints and how to fix them for good.
One of the most frustrating things for beginners is pressing a sublimation design… only to lift the paper and discover a dull, faded, washed-out, or barely visible image.
Good news: sublimation is predictable. When your design looks faded, it always ties back to one of a handful of issues with heat, pressure, materials, or surface preparation.
This guide walks you through every possible cause and shows you exactly how to fix each one. It’s written specifically for beginners, without assuming a lot of prior knowledge.
Let’s fix your faded sublimation prints.
First: Understand What Faded Means in Sublimation
When we say "faded," we mean:
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Colors look weak or washed out
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Black looks gray or brown
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Reds look pink
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Blues look dull
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Image looks uneven or patchy
Sublimation prints ALWAYS look dull before pressing. That’s normal.
This guide covers cases where your final pressed project still looks faded.
Your Substrate Isn’t Compatible with Sublimation
Sublimation only works on polyester or items that have a polymer coating.
Fabric must be at least 65% polyester
100% polyester = brightest results
65% polyester = softer, vintage look
Below 50% = muted, barely visible print
Hard blanks MUST be labeled sublimation-ready
Walmart mugs, Dollar Tree ornaments, wood blocks, and uncoated tiles will NOT sublimate without special prep.
How to Fix It:
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Use blanks labeled poly-coated or sublimation blanks (here are some links, ornaments, tumblers, magnets, air fresheners)
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For cotton: use glitter HTV or sublimation patches
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For wood/canvas: use a polyester coating or glitter HTV
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For mugs: use only sublimation-coated mugs
If the surface doesn’t have polyester, then the ink cannot bond and results look faded.
Not Enough Heat or Wrong Temperature
Sublimation needs high, consistent heat to activate the ink.
Most projects press at:
385–400°F (195–205°C)
If your temperature is too low:
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The colors will not fully turn to gas
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The ink will not penetrate the polyester coating
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Your transfer will look pale or weak
Common Causes:
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The heat press is running cooler than displayed
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There are cold spots on press
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Using an EasyPress curved surfaces
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Opening the press too early
How to Fix It:
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Use an infrared thermometer to verify actual press temperature
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Increase time by 10–20 seconds
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Use a firm, constant pressure
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Preheat your blank for 5 seconds to remove moisture
If you hear sizzling, your press is too hot.
If your print is faded, it's usually too cool.
Not Enough Pressure
Pressure is just as important as heat.
If the pressure is too light:
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Ink won’t bond correctly
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Transfer will look fuzzy or faded
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Edges may look weak or uneven
How to Fix It:
For most projects:
Use medium to firm pressure.
Tips:
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Use a pressing pillow for shirts with seams
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Adjust clamshell presses tighter
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For mugs/tumblers: ensure the press wraps tightly
If your paper lifts or shifts, then pressure is too low.
You Didn’t Press Long Enough
Under-pressing is the #1 beginner cause of faded sublimation.
If the ink doesn’t fully turn to gas, your image will look:
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Pale
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Soft
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Uneven
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Missing detail
How to Fix It:
Increase your time by 10–20 seconds.
Typical times:
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Shirts → 45 seconds
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Mugs → 180–240 seconds
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Hardboard → 60 seconds
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Wood (poly-coated) → 45–60 seconds
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Acrylic → 60 seconds
Always check the blank’s instructions.
Your Sublimation Paper Isn’t Releasing Ink Properly
Not all sublimation paper is created equal.
Cheap or incorrect paper can cause:
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Weak transfers
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Patchy color
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Faded spots
How to Fix It:
Use reputable brands:
Make sure you're using the correct weight:
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105g for fabric
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120–125g for hard items
And always print on the bright white side.
Your Ink Isn’t High Quality or is Installed Incorrectly
Low-quality sublimation ink will only give low-quality colors.
If your ink is:
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Old
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Stored hot/cold
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Not shaken periodically
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Mixed with another brand
…your colors will suffer.
How to Fix It:
Use a reliable ink:
Never mix ink brands in the same tank.
Don't leave ink sitting for too long without mixing.
Your Printer Settings Are Incorrect
Incorrect print settings can drastically weaken color output.
Check:
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Color mode → should be Best Quality or High
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Paper type → Premium Matte or Presentation Paper Matte
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ICC profiles → installed correctly
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Mirror ON
How to Fix It:
Use recommended settings for your exact ink + printer.
Install ICC profiles if available.
You Did Not Lint Roll Fabric
This is a small step that causes many problems.
Lint fibers turn into:
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Blue dots
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faded specks
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weak areas where ink didn’t bond
How to Fix It:
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Shirts
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Towels
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Flags
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Tote bags
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Blankets
Every. Single. Time.
You Did Not Pre-Press Your Blank
Moisture ruins sublimation.
When moisture evaporates under heat:
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The ink can’t bond
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Colors turn pale or uneven
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You get washed-out areas
How to Fix It:
Pre-press fabric and porous surfaces:
5–10 seconds at 385°F.
This removes moisture and wrinkles.
The Sublimation Paper Shifted (Ghosting)
If your paper shifts even slightly, it can cause:
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Shadowing
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Soft faded edges
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Doubled lines
How to Fix It:
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Tape all edges with heat tape
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Apply consistent pressure
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Open press slowly to avoid suction lift
ADVANCED CAUSES (When the Basics Didn’t Fix It)
The Blank Has an Inferior or Damaged Polyester Coating
This happens often with:
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Cheap mugs
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Dollar Tree blanks
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Off-brand wood ornaments
If the coating is thin or uneven, then color will NOT transfer fully.
Fix:
Use high-quality blanks only.
You Over-Pressed and Burned Off the Black Dye
Black sublimation ink is fragile at high temps.
Too much heat or time turns black to:
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Brown
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Rust
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Dark red
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Muddy gray
Fix:
Lower your temperature to 380°F
Reduce time by 10 seconds
QUICK REFERENCE: FAST FIXES FOR FADED SUBLIMATION
| Problem | Likely Cause | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Colors are pale | Low heat / short time | Increase time 10–20 sec |
| Image looks washed out | Wrong substrate | Use polyester or poly-coated |
| Edges look weak | Low pressure | Tighten press |
| Print is uneven | Moisture | Pre-press |
| Colors dull on shirts | Low polyester content | Use 65–100% poly |
| Black looks brown | Overheating | Lower temp |
| Design blurry | Paper shifted | Tape more securely |
| Colors muted on wood | No polyester | Use glitter HTV or coating |
Sublimation doesn’t fade because you did something wrong, it fades because one of the key elements wasn’t quite right.
Once you learn to control these variables, your sublimation projects will come out:
Bold
Crisp
Permanent
Professional
Every single time.
If you want to try your hand at a project now, check out How to Sublimate Glass Cans and Cups.

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